It was the
summer of 1999—my early windsurfing days. I came to Viganj (10 hours drive from
where I live) because a friend told me that there is a place with good wind
every day. His promise came true, and I enjoyed that summer very much. First
time in foot straps, first blasting in the harness, and the first water start –
it was all done in Viganj!
But, it was
a different place back then; one or two improvised camping places right on the
seashore, a small store to buy bread, milk, maybe some beer, and one restaurant
with not so good pizza. Mostly, there were windsurfers from the Czech Republic,
a couple of Slovenian guys and a Croat or two, here and there.
From that
moment on, I was a regular guest for a few years. Then I started traveling
more, discovering new spots in Greece, Egypt, and around, so Viganj somehow
dropped out of my map. 2020., a year of Covid19 pandemic brought me back to
that beautiful place. Traveling became risky, and Viganj was here, just around
the corner, accessible with the car.
I was excited
to check out a well-known place, but now completely changed. A lot of
campsites, some of them four stars category and a lot of people (Viganj is one
of the rare places in the world with an increase in tourism during corona
summer 2020.) It seems that many people from Europe chose to come with their
campers and caravans. It was crowded but safe. There are no hotels in Viganj,
no nightclubs, and windsurfers, kitesurfers, wingsurfers, and the rest, are
quite busy during the day, so except for occasional music on the beach, nights
were quiet and restful.
Two things
were the same, though. First: the Czech Republic and Slovenia guests were in
the majority, plus Austrians and Germans. However, there were people from Belgium,
Netherlands, UK, Italy, and other countries as well.
And, second,
the reliable wind almost every day in the afternoon.
Where is
Viganj?
Did you hear
about Dubrovnik? Sure, you have. Well, it’s almost there.
Take a
highway south through Croatia, all the way down to the city of Ploče. Here you
can take a ferry (40 minutes sail) to Trpanj on the Pelješac peninsula and stay
all the time in Croatia. Or you can drive further south on a motorway through
Opuzen in the valley of river Neretva, pass through Neum (Bosnia and
Herzegovina, only 15 minutes, and you are back to Croatia – transit is easy, no
problem), continue towards Dubrovnik until you see the sign for the city of
Ston (at this point you are 50 kilometers from Dubrovnik). Turn right and
follow the signs to Orebić (60 km serpentine drive – 90 minutes). Once there, continue
following the seashore some 5 km more, and arrive at Viganj.
It’s 550 km
from Zagreb (7-9 hours of drive, depending on traffic). And Zagreb is easily accessible
by car from all European countries. It’s not the nearest place for windsurfing
in Croatia, but it’s sure worth the effort.
The spot
Viganj owns
its winds to the narrow channel (1,5 km) between the Pelješac peninsula and the
island of Korčula. The mistral wind comes from the northwest almost every day
during summer. It’s usual strength of 10-15 knots in the rest of Adriatic increases
to 15-20 knots due to the configuration of the channel. The peak of the mountain
Sveti Ilija (Mons Vipera or Perun hill) is 960 meters over the sea level (which
is a lot, considering that it grows almost directly from the sea).
The same strengthening
is happening with the wind from the south called “jugo” (literary, south wind).
It is
possible to windsurf on famous bora wind too (much stronger than mistral or
jugo).
So, except
for a few days in the month, think big sails and boards. Most of the people ride
on 110-150 liters boards and use sails 7,0, 7,5, and above (up to 10,00). If
you are ok with that, most probably, you will be on the water every day.
No waves,
flat to choppy conditions, especially when it is crowded. Many sailboats are
passing through the channel, although most of them are keeping with the Korčula
side of the channel (away from windsurfers, kitesurfers, and the rest). Anyway,
be careful because some of them are not.
In the
morning, there will be an ideal condition for beginners. Around 14:00 – 15:00,
you can count on mistral wind (sometimes visibly coming on the horizon and
filling up the channel).
This year I
started to foil (that is something I’ll surely write about more in the future because
I am positively delighted and enormously inspired with foiling). I would say
that, together with the rest of the Croatia shore, Viganj is an ideal foiling
destination!
As I already
wrote, you can kite, wing, sup, or whatever is your thing. You can take non-windsurfing
friends and family with you, they will enjoy the place, for sure.
The only thing…
well, the mixing of kiters and windsurfers (and now so many others) is not
something I prefer. Unfortunately, I don’t see how it would be possible to
separate them, so if you are annoyed - like I am - with different directions of
the sailing of different sails, kites, and wings, you would have to adapt, just
as I did. Once you accept the situation, it will become better, and you’ll
start enjoying it.
The Centers
If you want
to rent the equipment, there are plenty of places to do so. One of the most colorful
(and most equipped) is Water Donkey.
I have a special
affection for them because their team saved me from a sad destiny after I broke
my boom head almost at the shores of Korčula. They were ready to help without
question and took as gratitude only “thank you” and few icecreams. I think they
deserve more, so I decided to recommend them as a well-organized place, with friendly
people. They offer kite-wind-foil courses for all levels.
Of course,
there are other centers there; you can choose by your camp or accommodation location
or preferences.
Anything
to do when the wind takes a break?
Plenty! Take
a bicycle with you, or rent one. You’ll find that the exploration of Pelješac on
two wheels is a delight!
You can also
do some trekking on the Mons Vipera (2-3 hours up). When you come to the top,
you’ll enjoy one of the most beautiful sights in the Adriatic!
Start early,
and take a lot of water. It can be hot up there. Use trekking shoes, and take
with your cell phone. Do not underestimate that mountain! Few careless tourists
lost their life there, mainly because they get lost (the path is marked) or
slipped due to wearing summer slippers or otherwise inappropriate shoes. And,
oh, the name Mons Vipera (The Hill of the Snakes) is not accidental. A lot of
snakes there – but, if you take a stick and make a noise (hitting the stones as
you walk), snakes will run away much before you will able to see them.
Did I mention
that Dubrovnik is less than 100 km away? So, here is your chance to visit that
legendary city! If you are a fan of “Tha Game of the Thrones”, it is a must, of
course. (The winter is not coming to Viganj, don’t worry).
From Viganj,
probably right from your camping place, you’ll have an excellent view of the
city of Korčula. There, among picturesque old streets, is a house where Marco
Polo was born. You’ll approach the shores of Korčula many times with your board
blasting back and forth, but on the windless days, or in the morning, you can
also take a ferry to Korčula (20 minutes) from Orebić. Maybe you can take your
bicycle with you and explore the view on Viganj from the other side.
And one more
thing: Orebić and its surrounding (including Kučište and Viganj) have fascinating
architecture: old stone houses with gardens in front, built by wealthy ship captains.
Orebić had the biggest flotilla in south Adriatic during the 16th
century (under the Dubrovnik Republic), and again during the 19th
century (under Austro-Hungarian Empire). It was a custom that the ship captain,
after each far away sailing, bring back with him an exotic plant or a tree to
make his garden even more attractive. So, pay attention during your walks – there
are many things around to see and admire.
A note
for gourmands
Ok, you
already know. I am a vegetarian and a gourmand. Croatian cuisine is… ah, not
for me. Very rarely, I can truly recommend a restaurant in Croatia that is
vegetarian friendly and serving delicious food. That is why I am delighted to
see the change is happening (how strange) on the two most known windsurfers spots
in Croatia. One is Bol on the island Brač, where Biomania rules.
And the
other is right here, in Viganj: a restaurant with the name Ciringito.
It is not entirely
vegetarian or vegan, but it is vegetarian friendly, and you can eat some excellent
food prepared with skill, looking fabulous and tasting even better. I’ll leave
it to you to judge about the looks of it from a few photos taken one evening
when we were starving after a great windsurfing session. For the taste… well,
you’ll have to visit Viganj!
